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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.239



  * You should *not* shock puppies.  Wait until the dog is fully grown.
  * For digging, bury the wire under the fence.  The depth will depend
    on how deep your dog is willing to dig.
  * For scaling the fence, run it along the top of the fence.  If the
    dog is jumping the fence, you will either need to make the fence
    taller, or try the invisible fence method.
  * This is not foolproof, dogs have been known to get around these, too.
  * Do not make a fence solely of electrified wires.  They should be
    put up on wooden fences.

(Continued in Assorted Topics, Part II.)

----------------
This file is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
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From: [e-mail] (Cindy Tittle Moore)
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Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Assorted Topics FAQ, Part II
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Archive-name: dogs-faq/misc2
Version: 1.1
Last-modified: 25 September 1992

This is one (of ten) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The ten parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27) in
the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, medical-info, training, working,
AKC-titles, misc1, misc2, and references.  To obtain the files, first
try ftp to pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp
does not work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
[e-mail] with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/references

in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).  If you
don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
You do have to repeat the path information for each file.

Changes are marked with |'s.

IX.  Assorted Topics (Part II).

  A.  Owner Allergies.
  B.  Pet Doors.
  C.  Pet Identification and Theft.
  D.  Pet Insurance.
  E.  Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
  F.  Record Keeping.
  G.  Removing Odors and Stains.
  H.  Separation Anxiety.
  I.  Showing and Breeding your Purebred Dog.
  J.  Travel and International Travel.
  K.  Vicious Dogs.
  L.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.



(Part II)
A.  Owner Allergies.

You can go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
specific allergies.  This can be expensive, but worth it, especially
if you have other allergies as well.  They'll test you for the things
you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
develop an appropriate immunity to them.

Different breeds may work for different people who have allergy
problems.  It depends on exactly what it is about dogs that causes the
problem.  Some people are allergic to the hair, but others are
allergic to the dander.  Still others are not specifically allergic to
dogs, but are allergic to things like dust and the dogs provide an
*additional* irritant that is sufficent when combined with other
allergens to provoke a reaction.  In yet other cases, people are
allergic to a dog *licking* them.  You must find out which is true for
your case.

Some people do well with Basenjis and Miniature Pincers and other dogs
with little or no coat.  Others do well with poodles and schnauzers
and airedales who have a different type of coat.  A lot of people do
well with Shih Tzus and Lhasa Apsos who, while very hairy, are
supposed to have hair much more like human hair.

This is VERY important: every dog lover with allergy problems needs to
spend some time with different breeds to find the one that doesn't
aggravate the problem.

In many cases, bathing the dog frequently, cleaning the bedding,
vacumming and closing off your bedroom will help alleviate allergy
problems.  There is also a spray available that you put on the dog
that is supposed to reduce the amount of allergens they shed called
Allerpet/D Most pet stores carry the stuff, and the bottle has an 800
number you can call for more information.


B.  Pet Doors.

Some points:

  * Get one that has at least magnetic strips to hold the door shut.
    In colder climates, you might want to consider a "double door",
    i.e, the outer door must close before the inner one opens.  This
    would cut down on the drafts.

  * Size is deceptive.  Dogs don't really need as much space as you
    might think to get in and out.

  * Installation is usually very easy.  Some models fit into patio
    doors and are removable.  Make sure the one you get is lockable or
    blockable.  If the door is hollow-core, it is trickier, because
    then you have to insert a frame in the door for the pet door to
    attach to.

  * The wall between your garage and house is considered a 'fire wall'
    and you're not supposed to cut any holes in it.  In particular, it
    could make fire insurance claims tricky.  If you sell the house,
    you will have to fix the hole first.

  * Install the door in such a place as to make it impossible for
    someone to push something through it to open a door or window,
    even if they can't crawl through themselves.  Ideally, you should
    have some way of locking or disabling the door for times when you
    are gone, say on vacation.

Johnson pet doors are frequently recommended.  RC Steele stocks them.
Another source is America's Pet Door Store (1-800-826-2871).

There exist electronic pet doors that are activated by a special
collar.  Most of these are for cats, but there are models for dogs up
to 110lbs.  These help keep unwanted animals from entering your house.
These are, of course, somewhat expensive.

Some dogs need coaxing to use the door.  Prop the door open and offer
a treat from the other side.  Don't try and push your dog through.


C.  Pet Identification and Theft.

There are several steps you can take to increase the chances of your
dog being returned to you if lost, or to decrease the chances of your
dog being stolen.

1.  Pet tags

By far the most important piece of information on your pet's tag is
your telephone number, including the area code.  Everything else is
just optional.  Some people do not like to put their dog's name on the
collar, as that can make it easier for a thief to coax your dog along
with its name.  The choice is up to you.  Attach the tag to your dog's
collar securely.  Do not use the "S" hooks -- many tags are lost that
way.  Use the keyring type of attachment, or better yet, have the tag
riveted onto the collar.

Of course, one problem with tags is that they are easily removed
simply by removing the collar.

2.  Tattooing

Get your dog tattooed.  Tattoos cannot be removed or lost.  This will
help identify your dog and get it returned to you (most animal
shelters will not destroy a tattooed dog).  It helps deter theft and
ensures that your pet will not wind up in a laboratory somewhere.
Your vet can give you pointers to someone who can tattoo your pet.  RC
Steele sells a do-it-yourself kit, worth considering if you have
multiple dogs.

Tattooing is an excellent way to protect your pets.  In fact, there
are animal science laboratories and vet clinics around the country
that sponsor low-cost tattoo clinics and tattoo "fairs."

Get the tattoo put on the inside of your dog's thigh.  This is much
harder to remove than one placed in your pet's ear.

You must get the tattoo number registered, or it isn't very useful in
locating you.  If you use the National Dog Registry, use a number
that will not change.  (Social security numbers are good.)  There is a
one-time fee for registering the number, and you can then register
other pets with the same number -- either free, or for a lesser fee
(call them on this).

So, tattoo: NDR XXX-XX-XXXX.  Certain breed registries require dogs be
tattooed with a litter number or registration number.  So you might
also add: AKC: XXXXXXX.  That way you fit both the AKC requirement to
have permanent ID on your dogs and you only have to register your SSN
once with NDR for $35 dollars and all your dogs can have the same
number on them.

Unfortunately, tattoos can fade over time.

3.  Microchip ID

An alternative, that is used in Canada, and increasingly in the US is
an injected microchip.The microchip contains a numbering system that
is accessed by many local animal shelters & vet hospitals in the San
Francisco Bay Area.  Each microchip has a 10 digit alpha/numeric code
that is assigned to you (or your kennel) and your pet. The code is
kept on file at Info Pet (US) [what is the Canadian counterpart?] on
computer and is readily available.  Some of the information that is
kept on file are extra emergency numbers to have contacted should your
pet be impounded or taken to an animal hospital due to injury or
illness. Your vet's name & number are also included along with any
important medical info about your animal. This is important for animals
that have life threatening medical conditions that need constant
treatment. With more animal shelters going to short holding times, you
may miss catching your animal at a shelter before it is put to sleep
or in some cases sold to an animal broker who most likely will resell
your pet to a research facility.

Not all shelters check for the chip, but increasing numbers are doing
so in the US.  There are no documented cases of medical problems
related to the insertion of the chip just under the skin.  Considering
that tattoos can fade over time, this is an alternative to consider.
It takes about 2 minutes to insert the chip and fill out the form.
After that, all you have to do is pay yearly dues. Info Pet may not be
active in your state yet, they have services in California and Oregon,
and most of the New England states with a few in the midwest area. You
can give them a call at 1-800-463-6738. [What are the Canadian
counterparts?]

4.  Thefts

Animal thefts do happen, this is a fear of pet owners everywhere.
First of all, if your dog is missing or stolen, you have a
responsibility to report it to the police.  They may not always be
able to do anything about it, but if they get several reports, then
they can justify putting some time on it.  Don't make the mistake of
thinking that you are bothering the police!

Call the shelters, call the local vets and tell them of your loss,
they can be on the lookout for your dog.  Most vets will take a
description of your dog and contact others in the area to keep an eye
out for it.  Put up flyers in the immediate area.  If your dog has
been tattooed or micro-chipped, it may show up shortly.


D.  Pet Insurance.

Pet insurance plans are typically accident policies, although some
also cover routine medical expenses such as worming and shots (or even
grooming) -- the latter are generally a better deal.

Between the deductibles and allowances, you may not get very much back
on an actual claim.  In several years of rec.pets.dogs, no reader has
come back with a favorable story on claim processing.


E.  Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.

1.  Pet Sitting

In some cases, you can find friends or neighbors willing to take care
of your pets while you are gone.  If you are using a professional
service as opposed to a friend or relative, try to find one that's not
just one person doing it but is a business that has several people
working for them.  When it's a business with people working for them
the owners of the business are more likely to expect their people to
do a good job and be responsive to people complaining about poor
service.  Watch out for the business changing hands.

Check with the National Association of Pet Sitters.  Members must sign
a code of ethics and can be removed if there are complaints.  They can
give you a list of pet sitters in your area.  Their address is 632
Holly Ave, Winston Salem, NC 27101 and phone (919) 723-PETS.  Their
brochure includes their code of ethics, and includes a list of what to
look for in a reputable pet sitter; included in list below.

Ask the company if they're bonded or insured.  See if they'll send
someone more than once a day.  Ask for references from previous and
current customers.  Some will bring the paper and mail in and help
make the place look "occupied;" that's a plus.

Check the potential sitter for the following:

1.  Does the pet sitter furnish written literature describing services
    and stating fees?
2.  Does the pet sitter visit the home beforehand to meet with the
    client and pet to obtain detailed information?
3.  Does the sitter arrive on time?
4.  Does the sitter get along with your pet?  Does the sitter exhibit
    confidence and ease with your pets?
5.  Is the pet sitter courteous, interested, and well informed?
6.  Does the sitter have written references?
7.  Is the sitter willing to give you names and numbers of former
    clients for references?
8.  Does the pet sitter have a service contract which spells out
    services the pet sitter will provide and fees for doing so?
9.  Are the company and/or sitter in good standing with the Better
    Business Bureau?
10. Does the pet sitter have regular office hours or return customer
    inquiries promptly?
11. Is the sitter recommended by someone you trust - either your vet,
    trainer, dog show buddies, etc?
12. Does the pet sitter have a veterinarian on call for emergency
    services?
13. What contingency plan for pet care does the pet sitter have in the
    event of inclement weather or personal illness?
14. Does the company have a training program for their sitters?
15. How does the pet-sitting service recruit and screen applicants?
    Are there any prerequisites for employment?
16. Does the pet sitter or pet-sitting service telephone to determine
    if the client has returned home as scheduled or require that the
    client notify the company or pet sitter of their arrival home?
17. Does the pet sitter or company provide a rating form for customer
    feedback and evaluation of pet-sitting services?
18. Does the pet-sitting service have an established system for
    handling customer complaints?
19. When does the sitter get paid?  Before or after you come back?
    A deposit up front and the rest later?

Try to find word of mouth recommendations.  You might try calling
several vets in your area to see if they have any recommendations.
Check with the local SPCA and with Better Business Bureau for any
specific complaints lodged with a particular business.

2.  Kennels

Look around for a good one.  Experiences can be good or awful
depending on the kennel.

One resource: The American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA) is based
in Colorado Springs.  You can use this organization to help you choose
a kennel.  If you write to them (or call them), they will send you a
small packet of information.  One part is a booklet on how to choose a
kennel, and another part is a list of all ABKA accredited kennels
around the country.

An ABKA kennel is supposed to meet a minimum set of criterion that is
spelled out in their literature.  The things they suggest you look for
and questions to ask involve a lot of common sense stuff, but there
are good suggestions you might not think of.

4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A
Colorado Springs, CO  80915
719-591-1113


F.  Record Keeping.

1.  Breeders

You should not rely on AKC to keep all your records straight.
Breeders MUST keep official records on their dogs.  There are numerous
fines listed in the back of the _Gazette_ for failure to maintain
proper records.  If you don't have your own record book, you should
start one.  If you are cited, you may have to start all over again
with new dogs.  That means that all the dogs you breed lose their AKC
registrations.  The AKC screws up a lot of things.  That's why it is
so important that breeders keep good files for their own breed club's
use.

Breeders need to keep records in a book about their breeding dogs.
This includes the dog's registered name, number, sex, color, markings,
date of birth, and OFA, CERF etc. Every time that dog is bred (either
male or female) the date, the name of the other dog, the number of the
other dog, and the number of the owner of the other dog goes into it.
When the puppies are born, the number of puppies, sexes, colors,
markings, date of birth and litter number is added.  The breeder's
name(s) is also included.  On the litter registration form, the
information is reprinted to get the individual registration forms.

When the puppies are placed in a home, the new owner's name, address
and phone number go into the proper places.  (You can order these
books from the AKC -- they are called "Dog Ownership and Breeding
Record" books and they cost about $5 -- but they have enough pages for
many dogs.)

2.  Titles

For titles and points, keep a small *bound* notebook (so that the
question never comes up whether pages have been added or removed) to
record the judge's name, the number of dogs in the classes, the number
of points, the date, the show, and the club sponsoring the show.
Record obedience trials the same way.  You may want to have a folder
in which to keep all ribbons and copies of certificates and pedigrees
along with a few pictures of the dog.  You just need to have a record
of your own -- like your check book -- to make sure someone doesn't
goof up.  Two records are better than one!

3.  Working dogs

Dogs that work: e.g., Search and Rescue dogs, Police dogs, Disaster
dogs, any that work in potentially liable situations or do work that
may be challenged in court should have an ongoing record of their
training and of actual cases.  Note date and time, individuals
involved in the training, the purpose of the training, how the
training session was set up, how the dog did, and where it needs to
improve.  For an actual case, note all the specifics involved: who you
talked to, where you got the scent article or other applicable
information from, who was found/rescued/attacked, etc.  If you can, go
back and take pictures of the trail followed or other useful sites.
Keep training and actual case records separate.

If, for example, an SAR dog's identification of a felon comes into
question, that record may prove the difference as to whether the
evidence is ruled admissible or not.  In contrast to the above for
titles, keep training and case records in a loose-leaf binding, so
that only the record pertinent to the case need be forwarded to the
lawyers.

4.  Your personal enjoyment

Anyone training a dog may find it useful and interesting to keep a log
of their dog's progress in training.  In particular, it might help you
uncover patterns unique to your dog, or suggest other ways to approach
training.


G.  Removing Odors and Stains.

1.  Urine

Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800
number); Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Resolve (carpet,
perhaps other items); Odor-Mute Enzyme Formula by the Ryter Corp.
These products use enzymes to break down the odor causing compounds in
urine and feces, and are quite effective.

Pouring club soda over the spot is often recommended for removing
odors; it may have a similar enzymatic reaction as the above products
(but this is speculation).

If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.

If you have trouble finding the exact location of the urine (because
it has dried), you can use a black light after dark.  Since urine
fluoresces, you will be able to spot it and clean it up.

On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
and no detergent, then wash again as usual.

Most of the above products will also work to remove stains from the
carpet, and sometimes from clothing.  Spot Shot is very good with
carpet stains (but not odors).  You should remove odors first and then
deal with the stain, otherwise the chemicals for removing stains
may make the odor permanent or otherwise interfere with the enzymes
for odor removal.

For your yard, gypsum is supposed to help lawns cope with urine.
This is found in Jerry Baker's _Plants are Still Like People_.

2.  Skunks

The important thing is to get the skunk oil off a quickly as possible
and don't let the dog spread the oil around.  Also, the skunk smell
seems to be easier to get rid of the sooner the dog is washed.

To get rid of the smell - try vinegar diluted with water.  Douches
work (they contain vinegar), but the perfumes may irritate some dogs'
skin.  Soap the skunked areas, then apply the vinegar - let it sit a
little while, and then soap again.  Don't get the vinegar in the dog's
eyes.  Try also: diluted lemon juice and a dishwashing detergent (Dawn
is generally recommended) to cut the grease.

There is a product available called SKUNK OFF.

If your dog's been thoroughly sprayed, don't expect to get all the
smell out with a bath but what smell is left will go away faster.

3.  Saliva

The watery, tasteless liquid mixture of salivary and oral mucous gland
secretions that lubricates chewed food, moistens oral walls, and
contains enzymes that function in the predigestion of starches.

The enzymes are the potent operatives here that leave semi-permanent
slime trails on clothes, ceilings, walls, and table tops, depending on
your breed.  Removal of high-powered slobber, especially from
polyesters and blends, can be a problem.  For washable fabrics, the
cheapest pre-wash treatment is Accent meat tenderizer liberally
sprinkled on the the slobber spots (wet the spots or whole garment
before applying the Accent). Let it soak for a few minutes, then wash
as usual with laundry detergent.


H.  Separation Anxiety.

Some dogs may cry and whine when you leave.  Most get over it in time.
You can minimize it by not making a big deal of leaving; say good-bye,
give him a treat, and walk out.  You can probably condition your dog
to accept it better by leaving for short errands and coming back soon,
possibly over the weekend when you don't have to work.

Go ahead and crate the dog while you're gone (provided it's been
crate-trained, of course).  A crate can help your dog feel more secure
in its own personal space where it can't get into trouble.


I.  Showing and Breeding your Purebred Dog.

Before you do anything else, you should head out to your library and
read up as much as you can on your breed before attempting to make
contacts.  You will present a much more favorable impression if it is
clear that you've done some reading and are serious when you come up
to ask questions.  Be aware that if you're serious about getting into
show and possibly breeding, you will be investing literally years of
your time.

1.  Getting into the show world

You will need to meet and get to know other people in the show arena.
This generally involves attending dog shows and talking to the owners
(at appropriate times, of course).  Joining up with your breed's club
also gives you more contacts to learn from.  Expect an "apprentice"
period as the experienced folks scope you out and decide just how
serious you are.  This takes patience, but is well rewarded later when
you have resources for the questions that will inevitably come up.

You might get the opportunity to help out someone who is showing their
dogs.  This gives you a closeup view of what is involved with your
breed and showing.

(a) Entering a dog

If you get the AKC Gazette, you'll get a show listing and some entry
forms.  You'll also get instruction in the booklet on how to fill out
and send in forms (also where).  That's all.

(b) References on showing

Other good books about showing are:

Tietjen, Sari B.  _The Dog Judge's Handbook_.  Howell Books.
Forsyth, Robert and Jane.  _Guide to Successful Dog Showing_.  Howell Books.
Seranne, Ann.  _The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog_.  Howell Books.
Nicholas, Anna Katherine.  _The Nicholas Guide to Dog Judging_.  Howell Books.

And of course any other book you can find in the library under the
636.36 area the deals with showing or judging.  This way you'll know
what is going on both from the exhibitors standpoint and the judges
standpoint.

2.  Responsible breeding

(a) How do I go about convincing a breeder that I'm a serious prospect
for getting a puppy for show and possible breeding?

This can be difficult -- responsible breeders often form a
unintentional "club": they are very concerned about their puppies and
prefer to sell to people they know or are highly recommended.  Also,
really good breeders often have long waiting lists for all their
puppies that can be years long.  This is where your previous leg work
in making contacts among the show and breeder in your breed helps out.
IT WILL TAKE PATIENCE.  The payoff for waiting is much better,
although very frustrating.

You might "apprentice" yourself to a breeder and go over with the
breeder on the next few breedings: why the pair were chosen, what the
breeder was hoping to accomplish, etc.  And then helping out with the
new litter: evaluating it, helping care for them, seeing all this
stuff first hand gives you a lot of feedback on whether you have the
will to do this yourself.

You may find it worth your while to go into co-ownership with a
breeder who is willing to be your mentor and coach you through your
first steps.  Other contracts usually stipulate that you will get the
CH and/or CD, etc on your puppy before breeding it.

(b) Why are many breeders so difficult about "admitting" new people
into their ranks or even just helping them out?

Do understand that there are people who renege on their contracts (and
start breeding willy-nilly) and so there are breeders who are leery of
even sincere people.  This is why you should work very hard to make
yourself known as someone who is really willing to do this right.  It
is sometimes difficult to understand just how hard being a responsible
breeder is.  Usually the new and upcoming breeder gets digruntled with
how hard it really is and gets the female spayed anyway, but sometimes
they just chuck it all and start breeding without thinking about it.

You just have to get your toe in the door.  Once you do, watch out for
"information overload".  Then you will understand why breeders are so
cautious.  Then when you get really successful, they want you to do
your part and help everyone else that wants to give it a shot, or they
want help to really nail those people who goof it up for everyone
else.

(c)  What if I just get a puppy and start breeding her?

Attempting to short-circuit this process by acquiring a petstore puppy
to breed will not work in the sense that no reputable breeder will
breed to your dog.  You will not get good quality puppies via this
route.  Most puppy-mill dogs are instantly spottable by their looks
and if not, the pedigree will always warn off prospective breeders.

(d)  Do breeding-quality dogs have to have their CH?

Well, yes and no.  Of course, opinion is divided on this, even among
the reputable breeders.

Some good dogs never finish their CH's because of other accidents or
constraints.  As a breeder, you should know if your dog is finishable.
You should know its faults better than any judge that will ever see
the dog.  It is up to the breeder to understand the standard and to
honestly evaluate their own dogs.  If you are not qualified to do
this, then you need a mentor who can help you out.